“Blooms” by Heiko Niede

 

THE GARDEN SHOW

“I want to make everyone happy,” says Heiko Nieder of his open-air restaurant Blooms. It’s perhaps the biggest culinary show on offer at Swiss Deluxe Hotel The Dolder Grand on the Zurichberg – not least because the integration into a huge, carefully tended garden is exceptionally beautiful. “It makes sense to introduce vegetarian cuisine right from the start,” explains the hotel’s culinary director. It makes life simpler for the cooks and happier for the customers, he explains.

 

 

CULTURE AND INSPIRATION 

The garden is both a natural backdrop and a source of inspiration. Before serving, the cooks, under the direction of Heiko Nieder’s sous-chef Robin Briner, scour the greenery, picking flowers, plucking herbs or harvesting berries and vegetables. “But of course, we can’t cook everything with ingredients from the garden, it wouldn’t be enough,” explains Nieder. While there certainly aren’t enough tomatoes, for example, the shiso bushes literally “exploded” in the first season last year, says the 19-point cook. “We had so many that we couldn’t process everything,” continues Heiko Nieder. Cucumbers, wild and earth strawberries, beans, basil and countless other herbs – around 70 different plants grow in the kitchen’s luxurious garden. When the harvest of a given herb or vegetable is over, a new one is planted, so that the menu naturally evolves with the season.  ;

 

 

NEW: GLUTEN-FREE BREAD

For the second season, half the menu has been rewritten, but some dishes have already established themselves as classics. Such is the case with the sweet and sour tomato and strawberry salad, where the chillies in the strawberry vinaigrette add a summery touch that suits both the dish and the warm season. The tapioca and faine-based bread is brand new. It’s gluten-free and based on a recipe Heiko Nieder received from his mother-in-law. “The bread is baked in a glass jar. We don’t do this, but after some experimentation, we can make a very good bread with this recipe,” explains Nieder.

 

 

SMALL OASIS 

The “Blooms” is a flagship project for the hotel – and for Heiko Nieder himself. And it’s an idea that pleases everyone, as he puts it. Although it’s hardly a big moneymaker, this fair-weather restaurant enhances the “Dolder” as a food destination and creates a good atmosphere in the establishment: among managers, cooks and guests alike. “Awareness of the beauty of nature has increased among my cooks. Everyone loves working here, everyone loves going into the garden to harvest. It’s our little oasis,” says Heiko Nieder of the restaurant’s function as a motivator. The customers, too, are “super relaxed and almost don’t want to get up”, says the head chef.

 

 

ONLY IN FINE WEATHER

From a logistical point of view, the vegan restaurant in the garden is a challenge for everyone involved, including the customers. If the weather deteriorates unexpectedly, reservations have to be canceled by phone. But everyone “reacts with understanding”, according to Nieder. Planning staff and set-up also requires a great deal of flexibility, but Heiko Nieder and a team have developed an admirably relaxed routine to provide consistently high quality service not only in “The Restaurant” (19 GaultMillau points, 2 Michelin stars), but also in “satellite restaurants” such as “Blooms” or in the changing pop-up concepts that take place in the former bar.

 

 

LIGHT AND TIRED

“The first season in the garden went surprisingly well and without a hitch,” says Heiko Nieder, looking back. For the second season, which has just begun, the 20 to 30 customers who take their seats here on a fine evening can look forward to combinations such as green tartare with zucchini, cucumber and avocado with a dressing of lettuce, green chillies, basil and lime. Warm kohlrabi stuffed with sushi rice under a dill mousse with yuzu and miso is a wonderfully light dish. And among the desserts, the coconut cheesecake on a pistachio base with raspberries and raspberry sorbet remains a bestseller – a kind of midsummer night’s dream in the form of a slice of cake and an evocative conclusion to the “Blooms” menu.

 

Text: David Schnapp

 

A must-see hidden restaurant in Ticino

 

AN AWARD-WINNING CHEF.

If you’re a fan of the GaultMillau guide, you’ll certainly know Federico Palladino. In fact, he’s won a string of awards: “Discovery of the Year” 2022, “Promoted Chef of the Year” 2024. These distinctions are well deserved, since the chef, who lives in a small village in the Mendrisiotto region, is one of the great hopefuls of Ticino cuisine, and his Cuntitt is undoubtedly an address to stop at when you’re out and about in Italian-speaking Switzerland. And we’re not the only ones to say so, since the chef has also been honored by Krug, the famous champagne brand. The fruit of this collaboration is an exceptional dish, an organic Mancini spaghettone, coated in smoked Gotthard butter, enhanced by a few drops of lemon and a sashimi di orata rosa (sea bream), all accompanied by a glass of Krug Edition 171.

 

 

CARBONARA IN AN EGG!

To get to Federico Palladino’s, you first have to lose yourself in the narrow streets of Castel San Pietro, until you reach the church of Sant’Eusebio, a beautiful 17th-century building. Thanks to special permission from the village priest, restaurant guests can park near the church square. The welcome is warm. The chef, a member of the Grandes Tables de Suisse, begins with variations on corn, creamy and crunchy, followed by a tartlet with a powerful taste, spiced up with “alici in soar” (anchovies), a foccacina with juniper and pata negra and, a little masterpiece, an astonishing egg. Inside the shell, you’ll find all the components of a carbonara, from guanciale to sbrinz mousse. Grandiose! What’s more, the egg was laid by a happy hen, cackling in the vineyards.

 

 

THE PLACE TO B.

In a nutshell, the Cuntitt offers a warm welcome, wooden tables and an enchanting inner courtyard, but this inn-like atmosphere doesn’t really suggest that this is a bastion of haute gastronomy. As demonstrated, for example, by the Kampachi: a crudo di ricciola (yellowtail), served with a good dose of jalapeño, shiso and cucumber, combined with a refreshing green tomato juice. Another example is the Astice: Breton lobster is perfectly roasted, served with asparagus from the Magadino plain and morels. The claws are served separately, under an airy asparagus mousse. But you can also opt for more substantial dishes, such as this crispy Ticinese pork shoulder, accompanied by celery sticks and lovage and enhanced by an intensely flavored, well-reduced Madeira sauce. As for the wine, it’s “kilometer zero”. In fact, the menu features all the best Mendrisiotto winemakers. GaultMillau rating: 16/20.

 

Text: Urs Heller

General Meeting 2024

 

“Grandes Tables Suisses” continues to grow and welcomes twelve new members

 

Obbürgen, May 6, 2024. At its annual general meeting, held on May 5 and 6, 2024 at the Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne, the Grandes Tables Suisses association enjoyed considerable success, welcoming twelve new members to its ranks. This expansion marks a new stage in the steady growth of the association, which now boasts over 70 members and is representative of gastronomy throughout Switzerland.

Chef Mike Wehrle, Corporate Culinary Director of the Bürgenstock Collection and a member of the association since last year, hosted the first Grandes Tables Suisses annual meeting in the unique setting of the Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne. “It’s a great pleasure to welcome the crème de la crème of Swiss cuisine to our establishment. We share the values of excellence and knowledge transfer with the Grandes Tables Suisses association.”

 

The annual gathering of Switzerland’s most renowned chefs, with a combined total of over 1,000 Gault & Millau points, was marked by an atmosphere of commitment and collaboration. The Grandes Tables Suisses association aims to bring together chefs from all regions of Switzerland, encourage mutual support, and foster the desire for joint projects among its members. Guy Ravet, President of Grandes Tables Suisses, comments: “Our association is continuing to grow, and is increasing its presence in all regions of the country. We now want to strengthen the female presence within our association, and our door is wide open to you!

The association’s aim is to promote Swiss hospitality and gastronomy, both at home and abroad, as well as the training and professional development of young and future Michelin-starred chefs. The highlight of the event was the Monday morning brunch, offering members the opportunity to exchange ideas and make new contacts.

Working together for the future of gastronomy

The Grandes Tables Suisses are committed to promoting Swiss gastronomy at national and international level, with an emphasis on sustainability, local products and the education of future generations. They share an exceptional team spirit and constantly strive for high standards of service, while promoting conviviality and the art of living. One of the pillars of the association is to establish suitable partnerships.

 

12 new members from 9 cantons

The following establishments and top chefs have been admitted as new members, distinguished by their exceptional commitment, creativity and constant pursuit of superior quality. They represent a variety of regions in Switzerland and come from all over the world.
the excellence of the “Grandes Tables Suisses”.

Canton de Berne :
• Martin Göschel, The Alpina Gstaad, 18 points G&M, 1 étoile Michelin
• Markus Arnold, Restaurant Steinhalle Berne, 17 points G&M, 1 étoile Michelin
• Christian Aeby, Restaurant du Bourg Bienne, 17 points G&M, 1 étoile Michelin
Canton de Genève :
• Ivan Baretti, Restaurant Tosca Genève, 16 points G&M, 1 étoile Michelin
Canton des Grisons :
• Paolo Casanova, Chesa Stüva Colani Madulain, 17 points G&M, 1 étoile Michelin
Canton de Neuchâtel :
• Gerardo Metta, Restaurant La Dispensa Neuchâtel, 15 points G&M, 1 étoile Michelin
Canton de Nidwald :
• Dietmar Sawyere, Gasthaus zum Kreuz – Dallenwil / Gourmet Stübli beim Kreuz & Bijou des Kreuzes, 16 points G&M, 1 étoile Michelin

Canton du Tessin :
• Marco Campanella, Eden Roc / La Brezza Ascona, 18 points G&M, 2 étoiles Michelin
• Marco Badalucci, Badalucci Lugano, 16 points G&M
Canton d’Uri :
• Dominik Sato & Fabio Toffolon, The Japanese Andermatt, 17 points G&M, 2 étoiles Michelin
Canton de Vaud :
• Philippe Deslarzes, Njørden Aubonne, 16 points G&M, 1 étoile Michelin
Canton de Zurich :
• Marco Ortolani, Eden Kitchen & Bar / La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich, 16 points

 

 

 

That was great! The Carcenat Gala on the Rhine

 

“C’est top”, says Benoît Carcenat when he is thrilled. He wowed everyone at the Excellence Gourmet Festival.

 

THE PREMIÈRE: CARCENAT ON THE RHINE.

A year ago, GaultMillau named him “Chef of the Year” (with 18 points; twelve months later, Michelin also recognized his talent and added a second star). Now came a premiere on the Rhine: Benoît Carcenat (large picture above) from the “Valrose” in Rougemont VD cooked for the first time at the “Excellence Gourmet Festival” on the Rhine. “Welcome to the small Swiss grand hotel on the water, where the crème de la crème of chefs cook”, said presenter Christa Rigozzi, welcoming the star. Large picture above: Carcenat in the “cockpit” of the “Excellence Princess”.

 

 

“I HAVE NEVER COOKED FOR SO MANY GUESTS.”

Carcenat and his boys had to get to work: at home in the “Valrose” there are around 30 foodies at the table; 120 expectant guests had arrived for his guest appearance on the “Excellence Princess”. “We’ve never cooked for so many before,” admitted Benoît, “a huge challenge. And under special conditions on a ship”. He was able to tackle the challenge calmly and calmly: “We closed the restaurant on Sunday especially to prepare the menu for this Monday evening”. He had brought his entire crew with him: 17 chefs and service staff! This was also a premiere, this time for Stefan Frei, CEO of Reisebüro Mittelthurgau and inventor of this gourmet festival. “The biggest guest team we’ve ever had here,” said host Stefan Frei, CEO of Reisebüro Mittelthurgau.

 

 

RAINBOW TROUT WITH COFFEE DASHI.

And then they whirled into action in the large ship’s kitchen. Some dishes from the current “Valrose” menu, some signature dishes that should never be missing. And a few surprises especially for the Excellence guests. Even the appetizers served to live music in the salon were a delight: the pain soufflé aux champignons. The layered dried meat with cheese. The hearty bouillon made from vegetable scraps (“We use as much as possible”) according to Benoît Carcenat. The first starter was a real sensation: A variety of Breton crab, picked apart under a crab jelly and as a filling in a baked doughnut, served with a cauliflower mousse with caviar. Followed by a beetroot carpaccio with Etivaz cheese and a heavenly white truffle sauce. Presenter Christa Rigozzi: “I could spoon up a whole bowl of this sauce.” Carcenat had brought the rainbow trout from Neirivue for the next course. He served it with Jerusalem artichoke shavings and a surprising coffee-dashi sauce. “The most difficult course of the evening,” said the chef.

 

 

DREAM DESSERT: ALL VANILLA!

Benoît Carcenat is a nature-loving chef who enjoys cooking with the produce of his region, but is also interested in spices and techniques from around the world. His main course was the best example of the marriage of both talents. He served venison that had been shot in the forests around Rougemont on a medallion of pumpkin, refined with a sauce of mild coconut milk and hot harissa spice. The desserts of his pâtissier Josselin Jacquet were also excellent, as he demonstrated his talent twice: first with a variation of plum with a delicate ice cream made from madeleines, or “melting rolls”, followed by his signature dessert La Vanille à la Vanille, which guests in Rougemont always order and which also delighted connoisseurs on the Rhine: crème, sorbet, jelly, oil and meringue with vanilla.

 

 

TOUR DE SUISSE OF WINE.

Of course, sommelier Mathieu Quetglas also traveled with the “Valrose” team. With great knowledge and a fine nose, he selected the right wine for each course. His wine pairing was a grandiose tour de Suisse, from Räuschling from Uhwiesen near the Rhine Falls to a fresh Viognier Pellegrin from Geneva to Merlot Tinello from Barbara Kopp of Crone Visini and a straightforward, restrained Malvoisie flétrie from Sandrine Caloz from Valais, which went perfectly with the vanilla dessert fireworks. “We’ve never had this on our gourmet ships before: a sommelier serving exclusively Swiss wines,” praised Stephan Frei, the festival’s inventor. Benoît Carcenat, the star of the evening, received the thunderous applause from the guests with a beaming smile and thanked the organizers: “The organization on board is perfect.”

 

www.mittelthurgau.ch

Text: Elsbeth Hobmeier I Photos: Fabian Häfeli