Top time in Glion: served in 90 minutes, the new lunches from Maison Décotterd are irresistible.

TARRAGON INSTEAD OF CITRUS

At the 47th minute, I fell in love with a slice of poached féra, the flesh of which is flaked off, served with a salsify crust and beurre blanc, all flavored with drops of tarragon oil in the right proportions. “As I cook almost without citrus fruits, I like to take advantage of the aniseed acidity of the tarragon”, explains the chef Stéphane Décotterd. We appreciate all the more that the small copper pan remains on the table, so that we can refill it.

QUICK LUNCH

A few weeks ago, Stéphane Décotterd launched his amuse-bouche menu. In his restaurant in Glion, where the view of Montreux and Lake Geneva is breathtaking, he explains: “Until now, there was only a rather short business lunch and the tasting menu, so I thought I’d offer a third option. Because lunchtime consumption habits have changed. Five times a year, this new offer will be adapted to the season and the chef promises to serve it in 90 minutes. Realistic? We tested it for you.

WHITE TO RELAX

Lunch starts at noon sharp with a chilled glass of Saint-Saphorin to lighten the mood. It’s accompanied by the first bites to be enjoyed with the hands that respond ideally to the wine: a crispy tartlet with cauliflower cream, arugula and fried capers; a saffron choux pastry dumpling filled with Bénichon mustard; a two-tiered cookie with double Gruyère cream and cheese.

DO YOU LIKE COOL-JAZZ?

At 12:20 p.m., a slice of bread and salted butter arrive on the table without much fuss. But what more can you ask for when the bread crust is so crisp and the butter so tasty? Something other than A-ha’s “Hunting high and low” in a cool jazz version, perhaps?

SHIVERS OF PLEASURE

After a delicious appetizer of trout tartar with watercress cream and nasturtium, comes the second course. It is 12:37 pm. Although it’s cold, I feel warm and shiver with pleasure in front of a raw shrimp tartar with watercress, covered with a beet jelly. A little yogurt keeps the flavors iodized and fresh.

SWEETBREADS AND LETTUCE HEART

After the féra, then a ravioli filled with truffle and senna, the pleasure of tasting is intact. But I’m starting to worry about the timing. Can a main course and dessert still arrive without stress? Here’s a glass of merlot, also from the region, accompanying a boat-shaped plate: roasted sweetbreads and green gnocchi, meet with lettuce heart leaves and green cream. Green? Yes, because sage is one of Decotterd’s other favorite winter herbs.

CAVIAR FOR THE END

The speed-dating is now in its final minutes and my cheeks are starting to turn pink. But at 1:31 pm, Christophe Loeffel’s dessert (“Pastry Chef of the Year” 2021) arrives on the table, right on time. Served in a caviar tin, the cocoa caviar and chocolate ganache hide pieces of pickled pear and a cookie.

I WANT TO SEE HIM AGAIN

That we should then spend a few more minutes to punctuate this enchanting midday encounter with coffee and mignardises, no one will probably object. In any case, I hope to have the pleasure of a new visit to Stéphane Décotterd very soon!

www.maisondecotterd.com

Text : GaultMillau Suisse

TALENTI DISCRETI

Nella Svizzera francese fanno parte di quegli artigiani eccezionali che praticano la loro arte senza fare scalpore e che da anni raggiungono l’eccellenza. Gli chef Franck Reynaud e Pierrick Suter, così come il cioccolatiere David Pasquiet, hanno ora qualcosa in comune: lunedì a Berna hanno ricevuto il premio Swiss Culinary Merit. Un cioccolatiere? Sì, perché dopo aver premiato per tre anni gli chef, la Fondazione per la Promozione del Gusto, che si occupa di questo premio onorario, ha “deciso di estendere il riconoscimento dell’eccellenza onorando anche la professione di pasticcere e confettiere”. Il cioccolato, simbolo svizzero per eccellenza, era inevitabile! I nuovi membri della giuria, la pasticcera Felicia Ludwig (Pasticcera dell’anno 2022) e Patrick Bovon, sono stati premiati con un Merito Culinario.

PREMIATA L’AVANGUARDIA DI LINGUA TEDESCA

Franck Reynaud e Pierrick Suter, presenti al Bellevue di Berna per la cerimonia di premiazione e il discorso del consigliere federale Guy Parmelin, non hanno nascosto la loro gioia: “È un vero piacere ricevere un premio del genere, che rappresenta un riconoscimento nazionale da parte dei nostri colleghi”, ha dichiarato lo chef di Lucens. Dall’altra parte della Sarine, Silvia Manser e Dominik Hartmann hanno ricevuto un Mérite. Lo chef del Truube di Gais (AI) e il giovane talento del Magdalena di Rickenbach (SZ) hanno ottenuto 17 punti e hanno fatto la differenza grazie alla loro modernità e audacia. Quest’ultimo, che è venuto a ritirare il premio con la figlia piccola, è addirittura diventato il primo chef delle nostre pagine a proporre una cucina interamente vegana lo scorso autunno.

GÉRARD RABAEY PREMIATO

Per quanto riguarda i dolci, se David Pasquiet “è nella top 10 dei migliori cioccolatieri del mondo” secondo la giuria nazionale, l’artigiano ticinese Giuseppe Piffaretti (La Bottega del Fornaio, Mendrisio) “continua a stupire per la sua coerenza, la sua professionalità e la sua capacità di trasmettere”. L’uomo conosciuto in tutto il Ticino come “Mastro Piff” non vede l’ora di far conoscere i dolci della sua regione agli epicurei che trascorrono un weekend nel cantone di lingua italiana. Durante questa quarta edizione del Mérite culinaire, è stato reso omaggio a Gérard Rabaey, ex chef del Pont de Brent (ex 19/20 e 3* Michelin) andato in pensione nel 2011. Tutto sorridente e “felice di vedere la gastronomia svizzera così dinamica”, il due volte Chef dell’Anno (1989 e 2004) è stato premiato con un Merito Culinario onorario, un riconoscimento della giuria a “uno dei padri fondatori della moderna gastronomia svizzera”.

www.meriteculinaire.ch

Testo : GaultMillau Suisse

TRAINED IN CRISSIER, PERSONAL WRITING 

One can recognize a M.O.F. (Meilleurs Ouvrier de France) at first glance by their chef’s coat with the colors of the tricolor flag on the collar. Benoît Carcenat is one of them. But it is in Switzerland that he made his career. First, at the “Hôtel de Ville” in Crissier, encouraged and supported by Benoît Violier, hence his nickname of “Benoît II”. Marked by this passenger, Carcenat did not try to make the Valrose in Rougemont a Crissier. He developed his own unforgettable signature. Urs Heller, editor-in-chief of GaultMillau Switzerland, explains: “I sent three different testers there: they all share the same enthusiasm.

DISCOVER THE CHEF OF THE YEAR IN QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS :

BENOÎT CARCENAT, CONGRATULATIONS FOR THE TITLE OF “CHEF OF THE YEAR” 2023!

This is incredible! I am very happy that the GaultMillau awards for our work after such a short time. Since I arrived in Switzerland some 20 years ago, I have never missed this award. To have this honor bestowed upon us today, even though we have only been working at Rougemont for about a year, is truly fabulous. And the title of “Cook of the Year” is certainly mine, but it’s recognition of the work of an entire team and the implementation of countless ideas by many people.

WERE YOU NERVOUS BEFORE THE AWARD CEREMONY?

No, why would I be nervous? But I was very moved by it.

IS THERE ANYTHING THAT MAKES YOU NERVOUS?

I get a little more nervous when we change the menu – until we are sure that everything works the way I imagined it would.

HOW DID THE VILLAGERS OF ROUGEMONT REACT WHEN YOU STARTED WORKING AT VALROSE IN 2021?

At first, there were a lot of questions: Who is he? What is he doing here? Can we still have coffee at the Valrose or will it become an exclusive address? There was some mistrust. Today, the clientele is reassured and happy that we continue to run the café next to the gourmet restaurant.

WILL YOUR CUISINE CHANGE NOW?

Absolutely not! The dishes may be a little more refined, but I will continue to do exactly the same. After all, that’s what I was awarded for.

Text : GaultMillau Suisse

HEUREUX COCHONS DU VILLAGE

Il faut avoir de bons amis ! Bernadette Lisibach (“Neue Blumenau”, Lömmenschwil SG, 17 points) a deux collègues qui élèvent des porcs noirs alpins à titre de loisir, pour ainsi dire devant la porte de son restaurant. “J’ai été impressionné par la manière dont ces cochons grandissent. Ils passent leur temps dehors, ont beaucoup d’espace, pas de médicaments et pas de stress”. Elle fixe donc trois jours de Metzgete dans son sympathique restaurant en pleine campagne, du 26 au 29 octobre. Réservez à temps !

LE TEST EST RÉUSSI ! 

Une grande cuisinière comme Bernadette Lisibach ne laisse rien au hasard. Elle a donc déjà testé la viande de ses cochons noirs des Alpes. Le verdict de la professionnelle : “Ça ne suce pas ! La viande est uniformément marbrée, elle croque bien, sa consistance est ferme et son goût est âpre. On sent que les truies vivent dans les prés et mangent suffisamment d’herbes”. La cheffe des Grandes Tables n’a pas peur du contact : “J’ai déjà participé à une Hofmetzgete. C’était très intéressant. Mais cette fois, je laisse le travail à notre boucher”.