Badrutt’s, the tale of a legend

Some hotels are lucky enough to be associated with extraordinary anecdotes that give them a mythical grandeur. This is certainly true of Badrutt’s Palace in St. Moritz. A look back on an institution with a history as impressive as the hotel itself.

As guests open the large, glazed wooden doors to the stunning hotel on the lake, they are greeted by breathtaking scenery. The reception, already imposing thanks to its large dimensions, exudes sophistication, luxury and excellence. In fine weather, the sun’s rays make the works of art on the walls, as well as the comfortable armchairs, look all the more magnificent. Every detail within the hotel and its rooms does justice to the name ‘Palace’.

Flashback to the year 1858, when Johannes Badrutt, who was still working in the iron trade at the time, bought a guest house with 12 rooms in the village of St. Moritz. 

The winters are particularly cold in the heart of the Engadine, and it was a risky decision for Johannes to open a hotel in this location. However, this did not put the avant-garde entrepreneur off promising his guests who had come from England in September 1864 that they would enjoy the most beautiful sunny days in the Engadine if they came back in the winter. Much was at stake for the bold man from Grisons as he invited them as his guests and agreed that he would reimburse them for their travel expenses if this was not the case. Johann was indeed proven right; the bronzed Brits did not forget this experience so easily and returned in the winter. In the meantime, he had constructed the world’s first curling and tobogganing run for his guests. The visitors were perfectly pleased and winter tourism in St. Moritz was born! Today, Badrutt’s Palace offers a variety of activities all year round, including tennis, spa, golf, fitness and cooking classes, fishing, ice skating and horse riding.

The guest house had been transformed into a luxury hotel, the Engadiner Kulm, when his son Caspar decided to buy the Hotel Beau Rivage directly below it in 1884. He passionately and resolutely carried out significant renovations, expanded the building and thus founded ‘Badrutt’s Palace’ in 1896 with 157 rooms and 43 suites. The third generation of the family took to the helm in 1898 when Hans Badrutt helped the hotel to prosper. His son, Andrea, then went on to give the Palace an international appeal. Under his aegis, personalities from the film industry, the art scene and politics stayed here, including Marlene Dietrich, Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin among many others. According to an amusing anecdote, the hotel and its magnificent postcard-like scenery are said to have inspired Alfred Hitchcock to create his famous thriller ‘The Birds’, as the American director watched how flocks of birds danced in the sky before swarming down to the lake from Suite 501.

The Palace has now definitely become a holiday destination for stars and other famous personalities, as well as for anyone looking for something special to cherish. A hotel that is characterised by its perfect, tailor-made service and its brilliant celebrations, thanks to which guests travel home beaming. That was also the case in 1992 when hotel guests were greeted with a special surprise as they looked out the windows of their suites: in front of the hotel stood beautiful limousines, elegant ladies and…an elephant!

This came about when a guest, who wanted to surprise his wife with an unusual gift, had asked the staff at Badrutt’s to procure something particularly unusual. The Palace team did not have to be asked twice and set to organising an elephant to transport the spectacular gift. After getting a hold of the animal, it was presented to the guests in front of the hotel.

Other extraordinary stories still circulate within the Palace today – you are sure to hear one or two more on your visit. And maybe your own story will one day be one of those that make Badrutt’s a legendary hotel!

Find more information on the hotel at: www.badruttspalace.com

Learn more about truffles!

Truffle season is in full swing, to the delight of chefs, who give it the pride of place on their menus. This is the case with Cristian Moreschi, executive chef at the Principe Leopoldo restaurant.  Even though truffles offer a truly tantalising taste, it isn’t always easy to choose the right one… Which is why the chef is here to help, offering his tips and tricks to make your truffle dishes a success!

Les Grandes Tables de Suisse: There are white truffles and black truffles… Which truffle do you prefer to work with?

Cristian Moreschi: Surely if you have the opportunity to find and buy white truffles, working with its quality is very stimulating: it has very specific, unique characteristics. Of course, the black truffle is also an excellent product, but with different characteristics and completely different aromas.

Les Grandes Tables de Suisse: How can you recognise a good truffle?

Cristian Moreschi: A good truffle is recognisable by the scent and compactness, by the solidity of the so-called “potato”.

The chef Cristian Moreschi (photo credit : Adrian Ehrbar)

Les Grandes Tables de Suisse: How do you like to prepare the black and white truffles and why?

Cristian Moreschi:  The black truffle is an ingredient that works very well with dishes based on white meat, such as poultry; it is, however, interesting to experience how it behaves even with more particular combinations. In this moment, for example, we have chosen to combine it with a beef fillet in a nut crust, with a delicate Madeira sauce. The white truffle with its richness goes very well with simple and rustic dishes, which give ample space to its recognisable flavor and its intoxicating, inebriant aroma: classics revisited like a simple fried egg, a beautiful potato purée enriched with fresh butter or whites noodles with a taleggio fondue.

In general, fats are always present in winning combinations, because they are vehicles and transmitters of flavours without equal. The search for the perfect dish therefore leads to a single result: a simple combination and at the same time rich in flavors.

Les Grandes Tables de Suisse: …And with the white truffle? What are the mistakes that should be avoided when cooking them?

Cristian Moreschi: Perhaps already in using the sentence “cooking the truffle” we are committing the first mistake: it is imperative not to ruin the raw material, so the best method to keep all the properties of the truffle intact is to be able to garnish it over a beautiful dish, at the last moment. It is precisely in this precious moment, when the truffle comes into contact with the dish, that this precious ingredient is able to release all of its scent.

Les Grandes Tables de Suisse: What is your tip to make homemade truffle pasta tasty and creamy?

Cristian Moreschi: We cook tagliolini for ¾ of the cooking time and finish the process in some butter and a little broth, in order to create an emulsion that gives life to a harmonious creaminess.

Les Grandes Tables de Suisse: You currently offer an à la carte truffle menu. What is your favorite dish to make on it?

Cristian Moreschi: At the Principe Leopoldo Restaurant we have a small menu with our “strong dishes”, highly-appreciated revisited classics. Personally, I really love the pumpkin and potato gnocchi with taleggio fondue, with a nice grating of truffle on top of course.

Les Grandes Tables de Suisse: Finally, which wine would you recommend pairing with truffle pasta?

Cristian Moreschi:  On the menu, we have an excellent Barbaresco red wine from the Giacosa brothers: a remarkable grape that immediately gave me an excellent impression when I tasted it. Or you could also be daring with a more unusual combination, such as with a Rosé sparkling wine.

Discover the menu and make a reservation here: https://leopoldohotel.com/en/restaurant-bar/


When the tomato isn’t there, but actually is

Nothing is left to chance, and it isn’t only a sequence of delicious dishes. For the chef of I Due Sud, the gourmet restaurant of the Hotel Splendide Royal Lugano, the making of a menu means creating a gastronomic journey that carries the guest into an experience made of both memories of the past and contemporary cuisine.

The menu “Il pomodoro che non c’è” represents remarkably well the philosophy of the chef of Italian origins. It is in fact by tasting the dishes of this culinary path, culinary bridge between “the two Souths” from which the restaurant takes its name, that one discovers Domenico’s Calabrian origins along with his great passion for the ingredients from Ticino, the land that adopted him.

Memory plays a fundamental role in the chef’s gastronomic experience. Guests are virtually taken by the hand and guided to discover places, habits, rituals and wonders seen from the eyes of a child who discovered cooking, whom today —as a grown up that has become a cook— proposes again with his personal vision in a gourmet way. “I don’t want to create an imaginary cuisine made up of many words —Ruberto says— but real, true, tangible. It’s like at the cinema: I never choose a science fiction movie, I like real stories better”.

Having to choose a dish that best describes this experience, it is a must to mention the “Linguine from Gragnano, tomato essence, smoked ricotta and pepper”. This course, which today revives with its complex and harmonious vortex of flavours, was born as a poor dish, inspired by a simple family tradition. “Imagine a basic, homemade, uneaten tomato salad. At my house —Domenico explains— when something was not finished, it was kept for the following day. It also happened with the tomato salad which, left to rest for one night, began to release its essence, creating a very tasty liquid in which all the taste of the tomato condensed.” And it is precisely in this aromatic “tomato water”, that the bronze-drawn linguine are cooked and finally stirred with Ticino alpine butter (here the second “South” claims its place on the palate) and finished with pepper and smoked ricotta from the Sila mountains. The result is an extraordinary combination of flavours that gives the sensation of a simple yet sophisticated dish.

In this preparation process lies the explanation of the mysterious name of the menu: “Il pomodoro che non c’è”, which means “The tomato isn’t there”.

As a matter of fact, the red vegetable is not in the plate, but its flavour is, thus creating an unexpected surprise on the palate. The soul of the tomato, extracted and used as cooking water, becomes the protagonist of a gastronomic game for those who, at the first bite, feel all its juice, without ever seeing it on the plate.

The same menu, which can be considered the most representative of I Due Sud concept, features a buffalo cheek course. With this elegant and flavoury dish, chef Ruberto has paid homage to ticinese traditions by using locally sourced cherries that are put in jars with spirits, as it has been done since ancient times. In doing this, however, Domenico has put his personal touch, adding some Ticino Merlot that transforms the dish into a particularly evocative creation that fully respects his gastronomic stance.

The path leads back to Calabria with the purple shrimp, a variety of rare excellence, the absolute protagonist of one of the dishes on the menu. Domenico says that the fishing boats arrived in the port of Crotone, with freshly caught prawns that were tasted whole, carapace included. “I was amazed —the chef explains— it was a real show, one of my best childhood memories, one that never leaves you. The purple shrimp had to be one of the flavours that tell my story.”

Anecdotes and scents of the sea also return with the red mullet, that he calls “allo scoglio”, just like the famous first course. In this case, the trick lies in the cooking technique: with a stew of shellfish, the chef transforms this classic into a more refined dish. Domenico smiles and confesses: “It is as if I had substituted the simple spaghetti with the red mullet. The result is a marine explosion in the mouth.

The menu ends with the dessert that pays homage to the king of citrus fruits: the bergamot. It is not easy to find, especially in Switzerland. But Domenico and the producer have a special relationship, a direct link that allows the chef to have only the best of Calabrian bergamot available.

All of this happens while sitting at the table of I Due Sud, simply letting yourself be guided by “Il pomodoro che non c’è”, a unique human and gastronomic journey. Like the memory of each of us.

Find more informations on the website of the restaurant : https://www.splendide.ch

« La Table de Guilde »

N’avez-vous jamais eu la curiosité de découvrir comment nos ancêtres pratiquaient l’art de la gastronomie ? Le prestigieux chef du Casino de Berne, Ivo Adam propose dès à présent dans son restaurant un voyage multi-sensoriel à travers le temps, mêlant pratiques gastronomiques d’antan et histoire culinaire de la Suisse. 

Photo: David Toldo

À « La Table de Guilde », en groupe de maximum 14 invités, vous y découvrirez l’héritage culinaire de Berne. 500 ans d’histoire de la Suisse y sont racontés au moyen d’anecdotes historiques et amusantes, et de discrètes animations audiovisuelles. Par exemple, saviez-vous qu’autrefois, le castor était considéré comme un poisson ?
 
La soirée s’écoule au rythme du menu composé de 9 plats que le chef Ivo Adam et sa brigade ont concoctés. Les assiettes vous feront elles aussi voyager, puisqu’elles sont directement inspirées des recettes de nos ancêtres bernois, assaisonnées d’une pointe de modernité. Au menu : jarret de veau aux raisins secs, granité de vin fabriqué selon la plus ancienne recette de vin épicé de Suisse, ou encore tarte tatin à l’oignon en hommage à la plus grande fête populaire de Berne. Et pour vous servir de la meilleure façon qu’il soit, le chef cuisinier fait également office d’hôte à la « table de la guilde » tout au long de la soirée.
 
Découvrez au restaurant du Casino de Berne un lieu unique où l’histoire et la modernité se rencontrent à partir d’une seule et unique source, l’art culinaire. Un mélange d’art, de culture et de gastronomie réunis sur une même scène.

Photo: Yoshiko Kusano

L’expérience sous forme de livre

Afin de rendre ce moment hors du temps unique, Ivo Adam a complété l’expérience avec la réalisation d’un livre du même nom, en collaboration avec Claudia Engler, Roman Tschäppeler et Benedikt Meyer : “Am Zunfttisch”. Tournez les pages et découvrez des coutumes et des événements culinaires du vieux Berne. Le livre rassemble également 30 recettes du chef Ivo Adam, y compris tous les plats servis au cours de la soirée. Le livre de 240 pages est disponible séparément et immédiatement dans les magasins ou sur le site Internet du Casino de Berne, pour 69frs.

Commandez votre livre en ligne ici : https://shop.casinobern.ch

Informations pratiques

  • En raison du COVID-19, nous n’acceptons que des groupes fermés jusqu’à 14 personnes.